Browsing "Make Over Projects"

Love Me Some Chalk Paint – Master Bath Cabinet

Master Bath Cabinets - 1With the hail storm in April that took out our roof, six windows and skylight; it also messed up the ceiling and some areas in our Master Bath.  With all that work being done why not up date the rest of the MB.

We have lived in our home for over 30 years and although the ash cabinets were beautiful in the 80’s it is now time to update them.  I also decided to redo the texture on the MB walls but that is another story.

 

 

 

Master Cabinet - Up closeIf you look closely they are showing the wear.  Other than some surface scratches and nicks the bones of these cabinets are in great shape.  

 

 

 

 

 

MB - DrawersFirst I remove all the hardware and clean the drawers and the vanity.  Then I used stainable/paintable wood filler and patch up the nicks, and since the drawers had some uneven surfaces I sanded just enough to make them smooth.

When you use chalk paint you do not have to prep the surface, but since these were pretty beat up I went ahead prepped and repaired so I would have a very smooth surface when they were all done.

 

 

Chalk Painted MB DrawersI used several different colors of chalk paint and also different techniques.  

I used B. B. Frosch and a conversion chart that Rebecca Kenny @ [email protected] (an area stocklist for B. B. Frosch) provided me to get the Annie Sloan colors for Coco, French Linen and Old White.

First I painted everything in Coco (2 coats of chalk paint no priming).  Next I painted French Linen and wiped off with a damp rag to give depth. When that was dry I white washed and wiped the white wash off with a dry rag.  Then I took a Pitt Pen in brown and added the glazing look in the creases.  Last, I did a little dry brushing (in white) to bring out more highlights on the edges.  Since this was the Master Bath with water and humidity I finished the cabinets with two coats of polyacrylic instead of waxing.

 

 

MB VanityI know when you read all the steps you are thinking this is way too much effort, but none of these steps take that long to do and the results are amazing.  The pictures do not do it justice.  I found the knobs at HL on sale for $1.70 a piece and the Mirrors I found at Kirklands for $20.00 (on sale and the perfect color for the Master Bath).

The wall color is SW Sea Haze (in a flat finish).  The flat finish of the paint gives such a soft feel to the room and makes the Master Bath feel like a spa.  I will be able to add white, chocolate or charcoal linens to this bath.  The white linens will give it a beach feeling.  After all the work I might just have to go with that feeling for a while!

 

This is not a sponsored post from any of the vendors I mentioned above all opinions are my own.  I will tell you I love B. B. Frosch and love the fact that you can make any paint chalk paint with the additive.  It cleans up beautifully and goes on like “butter”. I also like their paint products like paint brushes, waxes, brush soaps and cloths.

If you are in the Dallas area, contact Rebecca Kenny for some classes on techniques, and she can help you out with B. B. Frosch information and supplies!

 

Whitewashed Fireplace – Drop the Mic I’m Finished

Whitewashed Fireplace - Chalk Paint - White Dover When we had our paneling painted white (SW – Dover White), it made the brick fireplace seem out of place.  Mainly because of the color (yellow and orange with black mortar).

I started researching how to update the fireplace including getting an estimate for rocking it.  Would love to do that; however, it was approximately $2-3 thousand dollars.  I opted to whitewash it.

 

 

 

Original Fireplace -This picture is what it looked like before I whitewashed it.  Remember my fireplace has black mortar.

I chose to use B. B. Frosch and make SW White Dover paint into chalk paint.   With B. B. Frosch you can make any paint chalk paint.  It is a great product (I am not being paid by B. B. Frosch for my review of the product).  I did use ASCP in this project too, because I already had the product in colors I needed to compliment the den’s color pallet. 

We have a large fireplace that spans across the room at an angle.  It took me less than 8oz of White Dover chalk paint watered down (50/50 water to paint) to do the entire fireplace.

 

 

Original Fireplace - Black mortarHere are some tips I learned as I was transforming the fireplace.

Think about the color you want to wash with, keep in mind that the color of the brick will effect the depth of what is washed.  For example the black mortar with the whitewashed turned grey…..perfect for what I was doing!

Clean it – I took a brush and ran over the fireplace to knock off the dust and cobwebs.  

 

 

I chose chalk paint because I like the softness it has and it doesn’t require prep work. Our fireplace had been sprayed with shellac (that’s what they did in the 80’s.   Painted right over that sucker without cleaning with TSP.

 

 

Fireplace - Left Coner Start whitewashI used chalk paint brushes to apply the wash, because I had them.  However, you can use whatever brush you have to do this project.

I started on the sides, so if I made a mistake I couldn’t correct, it would not be that obvious.

 

 

 

 

Whitewashed Fireplace - less is moreWork in sections and don’t overlap the wash on the next section you are not ready to work on.

This picture shows where I overlapped on the brick and then when I started to work on that section, the brick was more saturated and it created a stripe.

Because I used chalk paint, I was able to take a wet rag and take off the paint and re-apply it more even.  

 

 

Whitewashed Fireplace - work in whole bricksA better method is to work the sections in complete bricks, this helps keep the tone of the whitewash even across the fireplace.

 

 

 

 

 

Whitewashed Fireplace - work in sectionsStop and walk away and look at what you are doing periodically.

This will let you see where you have put too much whitewash in an area or too little.

It is easier to correct when the wash is still wet than when it has set 10 – 20 minutes.  Brick is porous and the white wash will take on various looks as it starts drying and absorbing the wash.  

There are several items you can use to remove the wash.  If you catch it fast enough a wet rag, if it is dry, I understand Magic Erasers works well.

 

 

Whitewashed Fireplace - Still Wet FinishedOnce the fireplace was done, I went back in with a sea sponge and added other wash colors (ASCP – Country Grey, French Linen, Coco).  This gives depth to the wash without over powering the white wash.  When I had an orange or yellow brick color pop out I would sponge in other colors to make it recede.

When you are adding additional colors do it sparingly and rotating the sponge and the color wash.  Let it absorb in and take another look from a distance.  Here less is more and you can always go back in and add more where needed.

Even after it dries you can add additional color washes in where needed.

 

 

Whitewashed Fireplace - Chalk Paint - White DoverIt took me about 4 hours (at the most) to complete this big fireplace and that includes sponging in all the other color washes.  When I first finished I loved how it look and was so excited, but I didn’t realize what I was seeing was it still wet.

As it dries it becomes whiter (depending on how much you have left on or washed off).  Mine was whiter; however, because I had sponged in additional colors it was perfect even lighter.

I did repaint the mantel.  It was originally Old White (ASCP) and it just got lost after the whitewash.  I repainted it with the same colors I used to sponge in the washes. I painted it ASCP Coco, then washed it with French Linen.  Once that was dry I washed it again in Old White, when it dried gave it a good waxing.  

 

This really was a simple project and I can’t believe it took me so long to convince myself to do it.  It brought the decor of the den together and looks great with the neutral pallet.

Are you trying to figure out if you are ready for a project?  Be brave and jump in!

 

Valance for Every Room in the House

Valance MaterialWe have several boxed windows in our home.  The latest and greatest thing of the ’80’s.  I was looking on Pinterest for a simple window treatment and came across a pin to use styrofoam panels to create a valance.

Over on Down Home Inspiration are the instructions on how to create this window treatment.  I’m not going to reiterate the instructions she does an awesome job.

 

 

 

Extended Piece

Because my Boxed Window is approximately 48″ wide I had to figure out how to extend my length since the panel didn’t measure that long.  Simple enough just cut it in half and used another sheet to reinforce the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

Test FitSince my window is boxed (and I did a good job of measuring) I didn’t have to attach it to anything it fit very snuggle in the window.  No holes in the drywall…………..sweet!

 

 

 

 

 

Measure MaterialFound my material at JoAnn’s (used coupon of course) measured, cut and wrapped the styrofoam piece and I did end up using pins to secure the fabric.  I was going to use staples but the pins were so simple.

 

 

 

 

 

FinishedI love it!  I found the styrofoam panels at Lowe’s and they were about $14.00 for a pkg that contains 4 panels.  I have a few more rooms I am going to use this window treatment in so this will be very cost effective.

 

 

 

 

 

I love the simplicity of the window treatment the clean lines.  My style is Farmhouse Glam and this window treatment transitions well with my style.

 

What is your style? Do you have a favorite window treatment?  I would love to see and hear from you!

Jan 19, 2014 - Make Over Projects    No Comments

Kitchen Lighting – Update

As promised, here is additional information on our Kitchen lighting update.  Our house was built in 1986 and at that time the hot thing was florescent lighting.  Pro – lots of light and it didn’t add heat to your kitchen; Con- the ballasts were always going out instead of  4 lamps you had 2 most of the time.

Here we are in 2014 and florescent lighting is not so cool for the kitchen any longer.  We finally decided to put in indirect lighting.

IMG_3969Our house is an open concept you see the den, the breakfast nook and formal dining room from the kitchen.  It also has a lower ceiling in the kitchen, another design concept back in the “80’s.

When we pulled down the grid that covered the florescent light, to our surprise the box was completely finished out….score.

With the help of a friend we installed 7 indirect lights.

 

 

IMG_3974Two on each side of the box  for a total of 4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_3972Three down the center of the box.

 

Now I will tell you I don’t know how to do the electrical (that is why along with other skills) I paid a friend to help install the lights.

 

 

 

IMG_0110The upgrade to the lighting finished off the kitchen.  I had to patch the two holes that held the florescent lighting and paint the “popcorn” ceiling (another style of the “80’s).  However, I love the finish product.  

The pendant lighting is actually designed to screw into the indirect lighting.  That way if you want to change it out no biggie, just unscrew it like a light bulb and reinsert the recess lighting cover. 

The total cost to have the indirect lighting installed and purchase the pendant lighting was around $500.  To get a better look just double click on the picture.

 

The new lighting gives tons of light and does not heat up the kitchen.  I also replaced the light fixture above the sink  with a low profile light from Ikea.  As soon as I figure how to get it off my camera and onto my computer I’ll show you what that looks like.  For some reason my SD card will not upload……..time to call my personal tech guy (Travis my son-in-law).

I’ll show you how I painted the “popcorn” ceiling without pulling the stuff off the ceiling.  I have done that technique twice now and will probably use it when I repaint the ceilings in the rest of my house.  Let’s face it I’m not going to scrape it off, it doesn’t bother me that much!

Telephone Bench – Revamp

Back when I was a kid we had one of these telephone benches, we also had a party line (that’s where 2 or more people share the same telephone line) and our phone numbers started with words, like Hickory 6 -1234  instead of all numbers.

I didn’t get a picture before Daughter #2 stripped off the awful paint, but here it is ready for me  to “Sherrify” it.

 

 

First up is getting everything sanded, filling holes and repairing anything that needs to be taken care of before you start painting.

   

 

Next up is to prime it.  I used Kilz.  This old furniture sometimes has a funky smell and the wood is so dry that the Kilz not only kills the order it also seals off the wood and gets it ready to accept the new paint.  By the way I don’t get paid by Kilz to say this, you just need a good primer.

 

 I do the full thing, inside, underside, front and back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It may even take several coats (and light coats) to get it where I want it before I start using the final paint.

 

From there I let it dry a couple of days and I also sand lightly in between coats.

 

 

 

 

Now I start painting, I use a HPLV sprayer.  I got mine for about $15 from Good Harbor Freight (again no pay). I have a small pancake compressor and it does pretty good at keeping up.

This color is gorgeous and I start with painting the underneath side first.  It is a Valspar color (sorry, don’t remember) but she took her fabric for the cushion and matched the color.

 

 

 

 

These steps are the same as painting the primer, light coats, let dry overnight, lightly sand, light coat.  I usually do at the minimum 3 coats and depending on how it looks if it needs more I do more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I added a little touch of my own for my Daughter.  She loves hounds tooth so I thought I would put a hounds tooth stencil on the bottom of the telephone bench.  You can’t see it when it is setting up, but she knows it’s there and she knows it a special thing from me to her.

I used the bronze glaze to stencil the design.

 

 

 

 

I finished this piece off by putting on a bronze glaze.  You can see it matched the material she picked out for the seat cushion.

Instead of using polyurethane or acrylic shield  finish the piece I used clear wax and let it dry overnight then buffed it out.

 

 

 

She has this sitting next to an entry window with a cute lamp and she is going to get a retro looking telephone.  So cute!

 

 

 

 

Finished Master Bath Roman Faucets

Absolutely sometimes the thing you dread the most turns out to be a non-event.

We finally finished the new Roman Faucets on the tub and also replaced the drain and vent cover.

Here is what I learned:  you need to measure the distance between the faucet and the wall to be sure the handle can turn.

Not exactly the way they should turn but they work .

 

We had to pull the front off of the garden tub and was worried it would break.  To our surprise it was very flexible.  We were able to pull a little away and then install the new faucets.

We had help with this, one of our best friends (Joel Orr) helped us remove the old rusted faucets and sweated on some female connectors.  We would have put on ball valves but we didn’t think we could get the front of the tub back on.

Guess what, when you buy these kinds of faucets they don’t give you all the supply lines.  We had to buy two more to connect the faucets to the water.

 

Now we got that done, we had to wait until some of the junk under the tub dried out so we could vacuum it up.  We had a little ant problem.

 

 

 

 

 

Next it was left up to me to change out the drain and the air vent cover.  The items I used are some plumbers putty, a nifty tool to take the drain cover out, a screw driver to give me additional leverage on the nifty tool, base board to put back in place when I get the front of the tub back in place and some caulk to seal the front of the tub and finish off the base board.

 

 

 

This was so easy; place the tool in the drain and the screwdriver in the top and start turning.  Remember lefty loosey.

 

Once it is out clean out the old plumbers putt.

 

 

 

Take some new plumbers putty roll it out in a snake shape and then put it on the drain in a circle.

Too much and you have it squeezing out from underneath your new drain cover.  No biggie, just clean it up.

 

 

 

 

Now, the thing you need to be aware of is that not all drain covers are created equal.  The one I originally bought with the faucets did not work, it was too large.  Quick trip to Lowe’s and a helpful guy, showed me what I needed and this one has a housing that can be taken off to show the smaller cover.

 

 

 

Start screwing the drain cover in and insert the nifty tool, this time righty tighty.

Once that is secure you can put in the drain stopper that goes with the drain cover.

Be sure and run some water in the tub to make sure it holds water, open the drain and make sure it drains properly.

 

 

 

The air vent cover was really simple just unscrew the old one replace the new one.  I was lucky the pipe that allows air so the drain works properly was secure in place.  If you have a loose one be careful when you pull off the cover and do not let the tube drop back or to the side.  It is really difficult to get it back in the right place.

 

There you have it the Master Bath faucets are all installed.  I just have to finish the access hole we cut in the wall in my closet and the project of replacing our faucets are almost complete.  I still need to get the shower faucets updated in both bathrooms but right now they can wait.  

They won’t wait for long because that kind of stuff drives me crazy.

 

 

Apr 26, 2012 - Make Over Projects    No Comments

Metal Art

Last weekend was Dallas Flee and my beautiful daughters and I went to check it out.

 

It was mostly vintage items and then I stumbled across a vendor that had something I wanted! Note I didn’t say need, I wanted.  

This is a huge metal sculpted flower.

 

 

This is it’s temporary home.  I’ve got a lot of decorating to do in this little bird sanctuary.

 

I have all kinds of ideas floating in my head about this metal flower.  I can curl the petals to make them more pronounce, I could heat the metal to make it change colors and I need to find the perfect item to hang it on to get the exact height.

 

Just saying, there is a lot to be done and now with this little extra nook to decorate I’m so excited. So we are headed to Austin for a girls weekend and another show!

 

Apr 25, 2012 - Make Over Projects    No Comments

Stain & Seal X 2

Here is a picture after it was re-done but before it was stained and sealed.

You are suppose to wait for 30 days before you seal the deck and waterproof it.

 

 

 

 

We bought Olympic 2-in-1 stain and seal (Lowe’s) and proceeded to put it on the deck.  We chose the semi-transparent Redwood Natural.

 

 

 

 

 

What a difference, it took 2 coats and about 4 hours to complete the process.  This is a great compliment to the color of our bricks and the hot tub (redwood stain color).

 

 

 

 

 

With the rust color cushions and umbrella it completes the “Tuscan” feel of the deck.  The variation in color on the deck is due to the old support wood had weathered.

 

See the “little house” in the back ground………yep, that is another project.

 

 

 

Here is how you know you did a good job, water beads-up!

 

 

Apr 24, 2012 - Make Over Projects    No Comments

Clematis Oh My!

I just have to show you this Clematis Vine.  Now it has not bloomed yet but it is well on it’s way.

 

Back when we had our deck re-done (1 month ago), I had to cut this vine down to the ground.

 

 

 

So, I bought this concave trellis so it would have something to climb up.

 

If you look at the bottom you can already see that the plant is growing fast.

 

 

 

Here it is one month later and full of blooms.  I love this plant, because it grows and blooms in the heat of the Texas sun!

 

 

Apr 5, 2012 - Make Over Projects    2 Comments

Jackmanni Clematis – Can’t wait to see it bloom!

When the deck was re-done I had to cut my Clematis down, but to my surprise it is coming back very strong.  I know I need to repaint the fire hydrant but that too is another time.

 

I found the nifty rain gauge when I was at Canton recently and ye that trellis is curved and the Columbine Vine will grow beautifully on it.

 

 

I post another picture as it gets up really big and starts blooming.  This was what it looked like before I had to cut it back, can’t wait until it starts producing the flowers.

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